Up at 0700 for breakfast with Mal, the PAO. I give him my walnuts and macadamias, because I have to lighten my load a bit for the next segments of travel. I give Wright my dried fruit and pecans.
Then it’s a meeting with all the coalition liaison officers, who later show up in Kenya and share many adventures with me. But this first meeting (interview) is a bit stiff, so most of what I get from these guys comes later over the many meals, time on boats and planes, etc.
The line-up includes two Brit majors (very English in a working class way--one I see only here, the other guy comes along for the big trip “down range”), a movie-star handsome French colonel, a South Korean Marine also out of central casting, two Ethiopian majors (one older and more jocular, the other more shy but the Swahili expert who teaches us all stuff as the days wear on), a voluble Djiboutian major, and the estimable Colonel Simon Koskei of the Kenyan infantry. We go two hours. Eugene sits in. The Americans purposefully leave so the coalition guys will speak as openly as possible. It helps and I get some great stuff. I am swimming here, but getting my bearings with each interaction.
After that last session, I head to airport with Adm. Tim Moon and his aide and Koskei for flight to Nairobi with stop in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. They travel in civvies. We’re going Kenyan Airlines, cause there’s no planned C-130 flight down that way on Monday and I need to be in Nairobi for my talk at the National Defence College, which is being treated as a big deal by HOA, as both Hart and Moon and the POLAD, plus local mil officers attached to the American embassy, will be there.
As I fill out exit visa, I decide to go with “business executive, software company,” since I can pull out my Enterra cards. Then I get to the window and see my “friend” from last time. He gets the same supervisor and then have some fun with me that goes on for a bit. At one point, the supervisor writes “Required” on a piece of paper and holds it up, asking me to confirm. I have no idea what he’s trying to get me to say, because they seem pretty pumped about catching me in my “lie” (“Oh yes, now you are business executive--right! We remember you, Mr. Journalist!”). Then it hits me: he thinks I write for “Required” magazine. Big laughs all around and much eye rolling, winks and nods. They think they’ve tagged James Bond, but finally I’m allowed to move along.
Nice conversation/interview with Koskei on flight to Addis (throughout this trip I am constantly pulling out my pads from inside my vest and scribbling furiously during all sorts of side conversations, just letting them happen casually). We go from sea level to about 9,000 feet. Fascinating to watch the countryside pass by. Pretty green up there.
We just hang on plane during quick stop to drop and load passengers. Whole bunch of Nordic college girls get on, so admiral’s aide Lt. Abby Goss has to sit between me and Koskei, so I take advantage and interview her on flight to Nairobi.
Lotsa ancient volcanoes to spot along way. Then we pass over the Rift and I am fascinated all the more. Africa has a cornucopia for the amateur geologist, my dream alternative life.
We land in Nairobi. Mil officers in civvies from AMEMB meet us. The admiral, colonel and aide skip visas because they have DoD identification. I have to wait in line and pay my $50.
When outside, we’re guided to giant white Toyota Landcruisers. These are armored but look normal in every other way. Long drive to restaurant, during which I interview Moon really for first time. Lotsa just talking about this and that and every so often an interview breaks out. I’m not the interviewing type. I’m the discussing type who lets the conversation cross over as naturally as possible, so I’m rewarded much on this trip by all the bridge periods where I’m just sitting next to somebody or hanging around and I strike up a conversation.
When we get to restaurant (nice outdoor Italian place) we get the word about an accident in remote Ethiopia involving a civil action team. Three vehicles on remote mountainous road. Car with force protection guys (Guam rifle company) and Ethiopian driver goes into ravine. Two US soldiers dead, one later airlifted to Germany who is stable. Ethiopian eventually gets treated in Djiboutian French hospital. Over the next night and day with Hart, his POLAD, and the attending AMEMB military personnel, they make about 500 phonecalls to accomplish helo rescues, airspace clearances--the works. I take notes and ask questions discretely.
Other than that, a great and long dinner conversation with Hart, Moon and the the POLAD. Very spirited. Great notes. I even chat up the security guys guarding Hart now and then on the side. All very useful
Then driver takes Moon and his aide and I to Safari Park hotel. We get there around 2230 and check in. Very nice in a slightly worn, Disney sort of way. Gigantic, gorgeous grounds with accompanying trees. Like an Africa paradise of sorts. Most who stay there are tourists with beaucoup bucks. Plenty of stores built in. Moon says not to worry on souvenirs. He’s informed Safari Joe that I’ll be by Wednesday morning before we fly out. Safari Joe is an Indian with a fantastic wood carving shop in the resort who gives U.S. military a big discount because they steer so many his way. Supposed to be the way to go, according to all I ask, so I feel accounted for on that score.
Hit my room, which is Africa resort nice (huge canopy bed with netting), but you look close and you see all sorts of beat-up stuff. I notice the Raid can in the closet. This trip and bugs! My wife will laugh when she hears of it, because I’m sort of a freak in my middle years when it comes to bugs. Must have been the years as super in that Boston apartment complex.--karma or something.
I watch a weird Mira Sorvino movie about a young women who gets involved with the mob. Mariah Carey is in it, and she’s pretty good. I watch it until 0100 and get up at 0700.
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